The Marianne collection features heirloom designs which celebrate candle wicking. Within the collection you will find several scalloped edging designs for creating your own lace to match any projects you make with the Marianne designs, including some corners. These designs can be joined to make the lengths you require. The scalloped edges have a narrow outer line of satin stitches. Here is how to use them.
So that there is no loss of strength in the lace at the join and to allow for small errors I have amended the designs so they have a very small tab. May I suggest that you first combine the designs in this manner on fabric without cutting the scalloped edges, unless you are familiar with this procedure. Because this lace has 2 edges of satin stitches it is far easier to create your scallops, as the first ones are in place when you make your trimming and the smaller second ones just tidy it all up! Having made the adjustment and also inserted a stop for cutting the scalloped edge my next experiment was so make the lace using cotton lawn and sheer fabric like tulle and organza. When using the Outline alignment stitches (OAS) remember that were they have been designed to allow you to place another design alongside, so the outline has no gap enabling you to see exactly where the next design should be placed.
Remember that to make scalloped lace you need to use a soluble stabiliser (or heat away for silk and other non washable fabrics) which can be removed afterwards, to support the fabric will you are doing the edging! I prepared the fabric and used a marking pen to line my lace against. For my stitch out I used a Floranni stabiliser for making free standing lace.
To avoid spoiling the stabiliser which should not get wet, or it will start to dissolve I sprayed the temporary adhesive on my cotton lawn so it could be attached easily. You can just see my line on the fabric and the outline underneath.
As you can see in this software image of one of the designs, there are tiny stitches which show where the second line of satin stitches go. I have highlighted them in a darker colour just so you can see them but I do not advise you to use a darker colour for your stitch out, as it will show through.
You see one of the smaller versions of the edging stitching out here, and the Outline alignment stitches are just visible under the fabric.
Trim only the fabric away after the machine stops. Be careful not to cut the stabiliser!
This final edging of satin stitches will tidy up the lace and give it a beautiful edging. I love these pretty colours, pale grey, cream and gold! To add another section of lace to this existing one you will need to take the lace out of the hoop and trim away your excess stabiliser. It will help you to leave the OAS in place.
Now hoop up a new piece of soluble stabiliser Stitch out the first set of Outline alignment stitches. Take your hoop off the machine and spray the underside of the fabric where the next design will be stitched. Then carefully align the fabric onto the hoop making sure that the design is in the correct position. The guide line marked on the fabric and the OAS underneath will help you.
Make sure your fabric is flat and stitch out the 2nd set of OAS. If you find your positioning is out, it won’t take long to unpick them and start again, as they are just long running stitches. If this happens take the hoop off your machine and carefully unpick the 2nd set of OAS. Do not unhoop the stabiliser or unpick the 1st set of OAS. When you are happy with the alignment you can finish off the design, and do as many combinations as you require.
Remember to carefully unpick the OAS and trim the stabiliser before washing or removing it with heat. When dry carefully press your lace on the back. If you are worried about any frays or gaps a little Fray Check works wonders.
Here is the finished edging and this could be used to enhance your projects and quilt blocks. The Marianne collection is on special until May 3rd, 2020 at just $35. Be quick to avoid disappointment.
Happy embroidering from Hazel