When we first start embroidering on our machines, we tend to place individual designs on various garments and items around the home, but at some point we need to start combining embroidery designs for larger areas. This can appear overwhelming at first, but it is not that difficult and the results are very satisfying and rewarding. Let me show you how easy it is to combine.
In my most recent collection, Rachel Kathryn Bridal, there are lots of designs that will slot together very much like the pieces of a jig saw puzzle. Now that all my designs come with and without Outline alignment stitches, you can use these to help you. (Not sure what these are use the Search box to find blogs on them) If you don’t have embroidery software, then I suggest you print out the designs that you think may work together. Cut round the printed designs so you can use them as templates. It is important to see how the designs look when combined. The overall shape is important just as the gaps that they create. I am going to show you a combination that I have created in my embroidery software, Husqvarna Premier +2 using the Modify module, with designs from the new Rachel Kathryn Bridal 2 and 3 set which are being released today (8th April, 2019.
Way back when I started to create embroidery designs I was determined to digitise lots of designs of many shapes, as I had known the frustration of not finding a suitable design for an area I wanted to embroider. When deciding which designs to use for a possible combination, you need to consider two things: the shape of fabric to be embroidered and the shapes of designs you would like to use. The first set in all my collections if always full of small designs, the main elements, perfect for linking larger designs. The design (GFE-RKB-3-7) I have chosen to begin my combination with is a lovely oval shaped one. To protect the original file I pasted it on to a new blank file, for my Husqvarna Epic Imperial hoop, measuring 360mm x 260mm.
I decided that I needed to place a scalloped shaped design under the oval, for the base of the embroidery, so I selected GFE-RKB-3-11 for this. I copied and pasted it on to my working file, rotating it as shown and moving it underneath the oval. You may temporarily have to move the oval design upwards to accommodate it.
It is best to zoom in and check the position of each design before you deselect it, so that it is aligned centrally. Now the embroidery still has the appearance of two embroideries so the oval needs to be moved down, as shown below.
Aim to place the two designs quite close to each other, so that the size of gap is similar to the gaps I used in the designs. This is the look you are aiming for.
To complete the combination I decided to try GFE-RKB-2-18 as it is quite a narrow design and has an interesting shape.
When it is copied and pasted on to the working file, it does not quite blend in and has a disjointed appearance.
With a little rotation however and some adjustment it I think it fits perfectly so I copied the new “rotation”, pasted it and flipped horizontally so it could be carefully aligned. Zoom in and use the grid lines to check your positioning in several places to be sure.
Once you are happy with the overall effect, centre the whole embroidery and sort the colours to avoid unnecessary thread changes. Then your work should be saved under a new name so the original files are not lost.
My finished embroidery had been created for my 360 x 260 embroidery hoop, and it had 57238 stitches and 18 thread changes. This was the second time I did this combination, but the first time I actually stitched it out on silk dupion.
This is the top section of the stitch out and below you can see the lower section. You will notice that the design positioning is slightly different, as this was an earlier combination.
Although I was thinking about a design for the base of a train, this has other possibilities even a bodice top. If you would like to follow my editing in detail, I have captured in all in this video:-
Happy embroidering from Hazel